Where Brick Walls Whisper Royal Secrets and Sand Dunes Hold Forgotten Tales
Echoes in the Sand
In the heart of the arid Cholistan Desert—just 130 kilometers south of Bahawalpur—stands a monumental fortress that seems to rise from the sands like a mirage. Derawar Fort, with its forty imposing bastions, is not merely a structure of baked bricks; it is a testament to forgotten kingdoms, Rajput valor, Islamic architecture, and desert resilience. This mighty fort once guarded the lifeline of trade and survival in a region where water was more valuable than gold.
Beyond the fort’s massive walls stretches the Cholistan Desert, a place where caravan routes once bustled, where the Abbasid Caliphate’s faint footprint reached, and where folklore, festivals, and survival still dance under the blazing sun. This is not just a travel destination—it is a story waiting to be rediscovered.
The Origins of Derawar Fort: From Rajputs to Nawabs
Derawar Fort was originally built in the 9th century CE by a Hindu Rajput ruler, Raja Rai Jajja Bhatti, of the Bhatti clan. At that time, it was known as Dera Rawal, meaning the ‘abode of Rawal’. As centuries passed and the desert shifted, so did political control.
In the 18th century, the fort was renovated and fortified by the Nawab of Bahawalpur, Sadeq Mohammad Khan I, after taking it from the Rajputs. The Nawabs made Derawar the southern sentinel of their kingdom. They recognized not only its strategic importance but also its symbolic power as a gateway to the Cholistan and the Thar trade routes.
👉 Learn more about Bahawalpur’s Nawabs and their heritage.
Architecture: A Fortress of Sand and Strength
What makes Derawar Fort visually spectacular is its:
- Massive rectangular structure, covering over 1500 meters in circumference
- Forty bastions, rising up to 30 meters high, visible for miles around
- Construction entirely of locally sourced baked bricks, blending seamlessly with the desert
- A labyrinth of inner chambers, underground canals, and secret passages
The structure combines Rajput fortification traditions with Islamic architectural influences—from archways to domed sections—and hints at both its pre-Islamic and later Muslim phases.
Today, although time and neglect have weathered its interiors, the exterior still stands tall, whispering the legacy of a multicultural history.
Cholistan Desert: The Soul Around the Fort
The Cholistan Desert (locally called Rohi) spreads across 26,000 square kilometers, reaching into India’s Thar Desert. It is a land of contrast—hot, unforgiving, and dry, yet rich in culture, heritage, and nomadic life.
Nomadic Tribes and Livelihoods
The desert is home to semi-nomadic tribes who follow seasonal grazing patterns. Livestock like camels, goats, and sheep form the backbone of their economy.
Handicrafts and Culture
Cholistanis are famed for:
- Blue pottery and terracotta work
- Camel skin products
- Colorful embroidery (especially Chundri and Multani threadwork)
These crafts often depict Sufi symbolism, and motifs inspired by nature and desert life.
👉 Learn more about Cholistan’s handicrafts.
The Royal Necropolis: Graveyard of the Nawabs
Adjacent to Derawar Fort lies a royal cemetery, the final resting place of the Nawabs of Bahawalpur. The necropolis includes:
- Beautiful white marble tombs
- Inscriptions in Arabic, Persian, and Urdu
- Intricate tilework and calligraphy
It serves as both a spiritual site and a reminder of the regal era that once ruled these sands. Sadly, the area remains under-recognized by mainstream heritage initiatives.
Nearby Historical Sites: A Desert Triangle of Wonders
Uch Sharif: The Mystic City of Saints
Roughly 100 km from Derawar lies Uch Sharif, a city dating back to Alexander the Great. But its true fame comes from its Sufi shrines—including that of Bibi Jawindi—which showcase stunning Indo-Islamic architecture and tilework.
👉 Uch Sharif’s World Heritage nomination by UNESCO
Drawar Wells and the Ancient Hakra River Bed
Cholistan was once irrigated by the Ghaggar-Hakra River, believed by many scholars to be the lost Sarasvati of Vedic texts. Derawar’s wells are evidence of ancient water engineering, forming a chain across the desert to support caravan routes and settlements.
Fort Abbas and Bijnot Fort (Border Zone)
To the south of Cholistan lies Fort Abbas, while to the far southeast is Bijnot Fort, now in ruins but once part of the Rajput defense lines before the partition. These forts form an archaeological belt that deserves preservation.
Cholistan Desert Rally: Where Heritage Meets Horsepower
Every February, the desert comes alive with the Cholistan Desert Jeep Rally. This event is more than just a race:
- It showcases traditional music and dances
- Features folk food and cultural stalls
- Attracts thousands of local and international tourists
Held near Derawar Fort, the rally is a modern celebration of resilience and desert spirit. It’s also a vital driver of eco-tourism and heritage awareness.
Derawar’s Conservation Crisis: Time is Running Out
Despite its historical value, Derawar Fort suffers from:
- Neglect and decay due to lack of government preservation
- Unauthorized constructions around the premises
- Tourist mismanagement leading to waste and erosion
Heritage lovers and NGOs have repeatedly called for UNESCO heritage status or at least full national-level conservation. Without intervention, we risk losing a major piece of Pakistan’s architectural and cultural identity.
👉 Support efforts like Pakistan’s Cultural Heritage sites campaign.
Getting There and Travel Tips
- Nearest city: Bahawalpur (130 km from Derawar)
- Transport: Accessible via 4×4 vehicles; roads are rugged
- Best time to visit: November to March (cooler weather)
- Recommended gear: Sunscreen, water, local guide, cultural sensitivity
For photographers, historians, or adventurers, this journey offers a taste of lost kingdoms and desert lore.
A Fortress of Forgotten Glory
Derawar Fort and the Cholistan Desert form more than just a historical backdrop — they are a living tapestry of dynasties, myths, and enduring survival. They remind us that deserts aren’t lifeless — they store centuries of whispers, waiting to be heard again.
By preserving these sites and engaging with their stories, we not only protect the past—we enrich the present.
From sun-baked walls to spiritual shrines and desert festivals, Derawar Fort and the Cholistan Desert are Pakistan’s hidden heritage. Let’s rediscover these silent wonders, support their preservation, and share their stories with the world.
Start your journey today at PKTags.com — where history breathes again.
