Shandur Polo Festival: Where the World’s Highest Polo Ground Comes Alive

Introduction

Polo is an ancient team sport, dating back over 2,500 years. While its origins are debated, most credit the sport to Persian emperors and their training of cavalry units. References to polo have been found in writings dating back to 600 BC in Persia. From Persia, the sport spread throughout Asia along the Silk Road trade route, reaching China and Japan by the 8th century AD. The British were introduced to polo during their colonial rule of India in the 19th century and helped globalize the sport throughout their empire.

Today, polo is played professionally around the world. High-goal matches in Argentina, England, and the United States attract wealthy patrons. But the sport is also popular at the amateur level, with local polo clubs found in many countries. One of the most unique amateur polo tournaments happens every summer at the world’s highest polo ground in northern Pakistan – the Shandur Polo Festival.

About Shandur Polo Festival

The Shandur Polo Festival is held annually in the Shandur Pass located in Chitral District in the Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa province of Pakistan. Shandur Pass is situated at an elevation of 3,700 meters (12,100 feet) above sea level, making it one of the highest polo grounds in the world.

The scenic Shandur Pass is surrounded by towering snow-capped mountains and alpine lakes. In summer, the pass transforms into lush green grasslands that serve as an ideal playing field for polo. The Shandur region lies on the border between Chitral and Gilgit-Baltistan and the polo tournament is meant to promote harmony between the local polo teams from Chitral and Gilgit.

The remote location and high altitude of Shandur Pass poses challenges in accessing the region. The unpaved road leading to the pass remains closed in winters due to heavy snowfall. During the polo festival, temporary tents, shops and eateries are set up by locals and the area comes alive with festivities. The stunning backdrop of the Hindu Kush and Karakoram mountains against the polo action on the high-altitude grassland pitch makes Shandur Polo Festival a unique sporting and cultural event.

History of the Festival

The Shandur Polo Festival is rooted in a centuries-old tradition. The annual polo matches at Shandur Pass have been held for over a thousand years, since time immemorial.

The festival traces its origins to local rivalries between the teams from Chitral and Gilgit during mountain crossings. As a way to foster goodwill, the Mehtar of Chitral and Raja of Gilgit agreed to face off in an annual polo tournament during summer. This friendly competition was meant to thaw tensions between the regions.

Over the years, the festival grew as more villages began fielding their own polo teams to compete. While the schedule varied year to year, the matches at Shandur Pass became a regular summer event that locals looked forward to every year.

In the 1980s, the festival began attracting international attention and tourism. This prompted the Pakistani government to take greater interest in organizing and promoting the event. The festival was rescheduled to coincide with summer holidays and weekends, ensuring large crowds. Corporate sponsorships also began rolling in.

Today, the Shandur Polo Festival has transformed from a casual local tradition to an internationally renowned event under governmental management. But it retains its essence as a celebration of sportsmanship, culture and community.

The Polo Matches

The highlight of the festival is the polo tournament held between the teams of Chitral and Gilgit during the three days of the festival. The matches take place on Shandur Top, which at 12,200 feet is believed to be the highest polo ground in the world.

The polo teams consist of locals from Chitral and Gilgit who spend months training their horses and readying themselves for the highly competitive tournament. Each team has 6 members on horseback along with a few reserve players.

The polo matches are played in two halves of 15 minutes each according to standard polo rules. The players attempt to hit a wooden ball through the opposing team’s goal using long wooden hammers. Great skill on horseback is required as players ride and turn at full gallop while trying to swing the polo stick.

The match between Chitral and Gilgit is highly contested, with locals strongly supporting their respective teams. The winning team is awarded a cup from the government. While the tournament is competitive, the event fosters friendship and connections between the remote mountain communities.

The Festival Atmosphere

The Shandur Polo Festival is more than just polo matches. The entire area comes alive during the festival with additional activities and crowds from across Pakistan and beyond.

The atmosphere is one of excitement, celebration, and festivity. Thousands of spectators line the polo ground, cheering on their favorite teams. Many spectators dress up in traditional clothing and set up tents and campsites around Shandur. The crowds buzz with energy and anticipation before each match.

In addition to the polo, the festival features other activities like traditional dancing, singing, and music performances. Folk singers and musicians play throughout the festival to entertain spectators. There are also cultural events showcasing local customs. Visitors can browse handicraft and food stalls selling local wares.

The stunning backdrop of the Hindu Kush mountains adds to the magic. The crisp blue sky, fresh mountain air, and alpine wildflowers in bloom provide a picturesque setting. At 3,700 meters above sea level, Shandur offers a unique high-altitude festival experience.

Nighttime activities include bonfires, fireworks, and festive meals. Locals host players and visitors with hospitality. There is a palpable feeling of cultural pride and goodwill during the festival.

For a few days each summer, the remote Shandur valley transforms into a hub of activity and excitement for polo and Pakistan’s living heritage. The festival atmosphere is an unforgettable part of the Shandur Polo Festival experience.

Getting to Shandur

Shandur is located in the Chitral District in the Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa province of Pakistan. It sits at an elevation of 12,200 feet in the Hindu Kush mountain range, making it one of the highest polo festivals in the world.

Getting to Shandur is part of the adventure. The area is remote and requires dedication to reach. There are a few options to travel there:

By Road

A scenic mountain road connects Chitral to Shandur, spanning over 150 kilometers. The route winds through the valleys and mountains, passing small villages along the way. The road is unpaved and narrow in parts, requiring skilled driving. Jeeps and four wheel drive vehicles are recommended.

The road is generally open from late May to early October, aligned with the festival dates. Heavy snow can block the road outside of these months. The journey from Chitral to Shandur by road takes around 6-8 hours depending on road conditions.

By Air

Travelers can fly into the Chitral airport from Islamabad or Peshawar. From there, jeeps can be arranged for onward travel to Shandur. The drive takes around 6 hours from Chitral.

During the festival, a temporary air strip operates at Shandur to allow small charter planes to fly directly in. Keep in mind, flights are weather dependent and high altitude conditions can cause cancellations.

Where to Stay

Accommodation options are rustic, matching the remote mountain locale. Tents and temporary lodges are set up specifically for the festival. It’s best to book well in advance since demand is high. Camping is also an option for a more rugged experience.

Basic amenities are available, but lodging is not luxury. The focus is on enjoying the natural beauty and polo competition rather than lavish accommodations. It’s all part of being immersed in the Shandur Polo Festival.

Impact on Local Community

The Shandur Polo Festival has had a significant economic and cultural impact on the Chitral region where it is held every year. The remote and mountainous region sees a major influx of domestic and international tourists during the festival period in early July.

The festival has become a major source of income and employment for local residents. Many set up temporary shops and stalls catering to festival-goers. Local women sell their homemade handicrafts and traditional Chitrali woolen items. Residents also earn by renting out rooms and tents to visitors. Taxi and jeep drivers make good money ferrying tourists to and from Shandur.

In recent years, the festival has encouraged small business growth and entrepreneurship in Chitral. Some residents have set up tour companies, built guesthouses, and expanded restaurants and internet cafes to cater to the annual tourist boom. The festival has also created many temporary jobs related to maintenance, construction, security and waste management. For rural mountain communities with limited livelihood options, the extra income during summer is significant.

Culturally, the festival has helped preserve and promote traditional sports like polo along with local music, dance and crafts. It draws worldwide attention to Chitral as well as northern Pakistan’s striking alpine scenery and unique culture. The festival fosters greater inter-provincial harmony and national integration by attracting diverse domestic visitors. It has also boosted tourism in the off-season, with some returning to explore the region’s trekking trails, historic forts and mosques.

Overall, the Shandur Polo Festival has proven to be an economic lifeline and cultural boon for Chitral and its people. The summer polo extravaganza has carved out a special place in northern Pakistan’s festivals calendar.

Controversies

The Shandur Polo Festival has not been without its fair share of controversies over the years. Some of the main issues that have been raised are:

  • Environmental impact – The increased numbers of tourists and vehicles going to the sensitive alpine area of Shandur has raised concerns about the environmental impact. There are worries about pollution, litter, and damage to the fragile ecosystem. Critics argue that more needs to be done to protect the environment.
  • Commercialization – What was once a small local festival has now turned into a major tourist attraction. This commercialization has been criticized by some who feel the authenticity and original local cultural traditions are being lost. There are also complaints about prices being increased for tourists.
  • Road safety – The narrow, treacherous roads leading to Shandur raise safety concerns, especially with the huge influx of vehicles during the festival. There have been calls for better traffic management and precautions to prevent accidents, especially as roads get damaged by the traffic.
  • Facilities – As attendance has swelled, complaints have grown about the lack of adequate facilities in the remote region. Critics say there is insufficient accommodation, food stalls, and washrooms for the large crowds. Some also complain about electricity supply issues.
  • Political involvement – There have been some accusations of politicians attempting to exploit or take credit for the festival. Others argue too much government bureaucracy gets involved rather than letting the local community manage things.
  • Outside investors – A few concerns have been voiced about outside investors from large cities attempting to capitalize on the festival’s profitability. Some worry this will lead to the marginalization of locals.

Overall, while the festival has grown rapidly in scale and popularity, this has created tensions around how to balance commercial success with cultural integrity, environmental protection, and safety. Ongoing discussions continue about how to sustainably manage the event for the future.

Future of the Festival

The Shandur Polo Festival has seen steady growth in popularity and participation over the years. However, maintaining the sustainability and appeal of the festival presents some key challenges going forward.

Plans for Growth

Organizers plan to expand the festival’s duration from the current 3 days to 5-7 days in the coming years. This will allow for more polo matches to be held, especially if more teams wish to participate. There are also plans to add more cultural events like folk music performances, art exhibits, and traditional craft displays alongside the polo matches.

To accommodate more tourists, infrastructure like parking areas, viewing stands, and restrooms will need upgrades. New guesthouse-style accommodations may be built to supplement the existing tents and basic lodging. Improving waste management and power supply in the remote Shandur valley will be critical.

Sustainability Issues

The pristine natural environment of Shandur is central to its appeal. However, an influx of tourists and expansion of facilities risks degrading the landscape. Trash management, pollution, and habitat loss are key concerns.

Regulating vehicle access, designating camping areas, and enforcing low-impact practices will be vital to preserving Shandur’s natural splendor. Educating visitors on sustainability and limiting festival attendance may prove necessary. Striking a balance between boosting tourism and conservation will be the festival’s biggest sustainability challenge going forward.

Despite these issues, the Shandur Polo Festival seems poised for a bright future as it continues attracting polo fans and adventurous travelers to its rarefied location each summer. Careful management will allow its unique competitive and cultural traditions to thrive in the decades to come.

Conclusion

The Shandur Polo Festival is a one-of-a-kind event held annually in the remote Shandur Pass of northern Pakistan. For several days each summer, the world’s highest polo ground comes alive with the sight of fierce local teams competing in an ancient tradition.

The festival’s unique mountain setting, at an altitude of over 12,000 feet, provides a scenic backdrop unlike any other polo venue. The fast-paced match on Shandur’s natural turf pitch is a highlight of the event, but visitors are also drawn in by the festive atmosphere around the polo ground. Locals and tourists mingle together to enjoy traditional music, dance, food stalls and camping under the open sky.

Shandur Polo has become important to the region both culturally and economically. The annual influx of tourists provides vital income for the remote mountain communities near the polo ground. The festival also allows locals to showcase their indigenous culture and builds pride in this beloved local tradition.

Despite weather disruptions and some recent controversy, Shandur Polo has endured and grown for many decades. Its stunning natural setting and unique competitive polo continue to attract visitors year after year. The festival offers a one-of-a-kind experience for polo fans and adventure seekers alike. Shandur remains an essential date on Pakistan’s cultural calendar and a travel highlight for many visitors to the country.

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